Schon! editorial. #17

'I am attracted by you, you were so relaxed and you were so very in charge of yourself'

I saw this editorial in the latest issue in Schon! and apart from CHAMPION by Ellen Von Unwerth is one of my favourites in this edition. The above pages is the opening pages to the editorial shot by Yasunari Kikuma and I like how it is two seperate images, making a change from a single image on a double page spread to start with. As mentioned in a previous post I love how Schon! cleverly mixes the use of colour and black and white in their photo shoots and this shoot is the two working together at best. I love the pink jumpsuit by Fred Butler and collar by Ambush. Anna Trevelyan produces some beautiful styling with garments from the one on everyones lips for 2012, Simone Rocha and McQ by Alexander McQueen.

Issue #17 of Schon! Magazine

Photography: Yasunari Kikuma

Styling: Anna Trevelyan

Model: Mehgan Collinson @Next Model Management

Schon! Magazine #17 Ellen Von Unwerth

Schön! Magazine #17 Review

Top American fashion model, Crystal Renn graces the latest cover of Schön! Magazine. The striking image is one of the strongest covers to date and is certainly an eye-catching work of art. The bold image was shot by renowned fashion photographer Ellen Von Unwerth whose editorial work also features inside this issue of Schön!

Not only did Ellen’s work in this issue of Schön! stand out to me because I am a huge fan of her work and style of photography but also because of the insightful and meaningful interview with her by Saskia Reis. The questions she asked Ellen throughout the interview are really insightful and dig deep, giving the reader an in depth understanding into Ellen’s life and accomplishments to date. It has always fascinated me that Ellen Von Unwerth has had no training in photography and taught herself and to me, this is what makes her work so spectacular. As a reader learning about how Ellen’s interest in photography grew is both insightful and as a reader you feel you are getting to know her better; “My boyfriend was a photographer and he taught me how to print black and white pictures, that’s actually how I got into it”. Looking at Ellen’s work the extent of professionalism is evident throughout; it would never occur to me that she has no formal photographic training.

Following Saskia’s insightful interview with Ellen comes the outstanding editorial CHAMPION where Ellen shoots cover star, Crystal Renn. The styling by Brett Bailey compliments Ellen’s trademark style of pushing the boundaries when it comes to sexuality in her images. Ellen works in a way with her models that capture the models beauty in a way that perhaps male photographers don’t. This editorial uses an array of jewelry by Stephen Webster that adds an element of edgy aesthetic to the shoot. Brett Bailey’s styling is simply phenomenal with his intricate attention to detail and powerful statements.

The lighting on Ellen’s shoots is always so brilliantly crafted and with CHAMPION this is most certainly the case. Ellen’s trademark eroticism is brought into this editorial with playful nudity covering some of the pages. The pages are well balanced with a mixture of both black and white and colour photography, a style that has become popular with fashion editorials over the past couple of years. The black and white images speak for themselves but the editorial is broken up and its impact strengthened with colour photography.


Written by Katie Handy-Beith

Interview with footwear designer: Chi Yuen

Chi Yuen is a footwear designer who was born in Hong Kong. She studied for her Bachelor of Fine Arts Degree at the School of Art Institute of Chicago and graduated with a degree in Fashion Design. She then went on to study MA Fashion Footwear at Cordwainer’s College of London. She has worked for Celine, Alexander Wang, Pollini and Nicholas Kirkwood. She is currently based in London, UK.

Third Floor’s features editor, Katie Handy-Beith was able to talk to Chi about her career and life…

Please tell us a bit more about yourself and why you chose to do a MA in fashion footwear.

Before I became a footwear designer, I specialized in womenswear fashion design, having obtained my Bachelor of Fine Arts Degree in Fashion Design at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. I previously worked for Celine and Alexander Wang. I enrolled in the MA Fashion Footwear course at LCF to learn more about footwear design and to further develop my project management skills.

How do you think doing a masters helped you?

The MA made me more confident in my designs and it polished by project management skills.

When designing what are your main inspirations?

My main inspiration comes from my surroundings and seeing women with great styles. I also take inspiration from art and architecture.

I love your final MA collection, the attention to detail is fascinating. What was the main inspiration behind this collection?

The collection was inspired by surrealism with a focus on Oppenheim’s Fur Breakfast, Margritte’s Les Amants and Dali’s Persistence of Memory. Misplacement of texture and materials on ordinary objects provoke immediate responses because of its unordinary qualities.

What is your favorite part of the design process?

Putting the designs into production, seeing the finished product and knowing that the idea works.

When planning your designs, do you consider resilience and how long your designs will last?

It depends on the designs. Part of the collection is more dramatic and less wearable as they were aimed at attracting attention. The rest of the collection is designed to be more wearable.

Tell us a bit about the materials that you use.

The materials I used include high quality calfskin leather sponsored by Les Rives srl in Italy and mink fur sponsored by SAGA FURS in Denmark and vegetable tanned leather.

What can we expect from Chi Yuen in 2012?

I will be looking to work for other footwear brands and setting up my label to continue a few projects.

Are there any projects that you are currently working on?

I am starting on a commercial fusion line of my MA collection.

What does fashion mean to you in 2012?

Femininity.

How would you cope with a fashion crisis?

Put on a pair of high heel shoes. Height gives you confidence.

Being a fashion designer can understandably be stressful at times, how do you cope with this?

I usually watch a film that is unrelated to fashion, which takes my mind off my work.

Do you have any other interests in fashion design that you might pursue in the future?

I am also interested in bags and other accessories.

Tell me three things about your job that you love.

Creativity, developing designs into finished products and every project is different from the last.

"I went to London to buy a heat magazine....."

I spent the day in London yesterday, it was nice to get out of Southampton for a day and visit the big smoke! :)

To start off with I had an interview at Schon! Magazine for Journalist/Copywriter at their head office in South London. I was nervous but fingers crossed it went well. I then went to Oxford Street to take pictures of shop window displays for an article featuring visual merchandising, Jonathan Baker for Third Floor Publication. Followed by a short trip to Camden market with my boyfriend and a theatre visit at Matilda in the evening. 

Oxford Street.

Selfridges window display. April 2012

I love this French Connection window display, April 2012.

Selfridges infuses the use of technology with this window display, April 2012.

Ireland xo

Another Selfridges window, April 2012

Creepers at Camden

Camden town

Matilda :)

Me at Matilda :)

James at Matilda :)

Emerging designer- Craig Green

In the past year I have found myself more interesting in emerging designers rather than established designers. After looking through 2012's Central St Martin's graduates one designer that really stood out for me is Craig Green. After only finishing his MA in fashion design in March his raw talent and innovative designs are already turning heads in the fashion industry. His futuristic graduate collection uses a mix of digitally block printed tie-dye designs accompanied with papier-mache luggage and matching headgear. The talented 25-year old tied with Luke Brooks in an attempt to with the prestigious L'Oreal Professional Creative award. Looking at his intricate designs, in my opinion he deserves to win the award and is most certainly one to watch!

PRADA SPRING/SUMMER 2012 WOMEN'S ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN

Brands seem to be focusing alot more on fashion films more recently. But what makes a good fashion film? It isn't just about showcasing the clothing collections, a strong concept and imaginative soundtrack is key. Here is the latest fashion film from fashion house 'Prada' and I love it. Starting off relatively elegant and relaxed a change of music sets the scene for the rest of the film.Enjoy!


K xo

A jokers wild... British Vogue Editorial by Paolo Roversi

British Vogue has done well with 'A jokers wild' editorial, shot by Paolo Roversi for April 2012. Argentinian model Magda Laguinge models with the perfect doll face for the shoot based around the theme of jokers and playing cards. The lovely vintage feel of graphics by Jean-Marc Guillaume really excels this shoot, making it look more like an editorial from Italian or French Vogue. 


Graphics: Jean-Marc Guillaume
Hair and Make up: Samantha Hillerby and Val Garland.
Model: Magda Laguinge
Photographer: Paolo Roversi
Stylist:Lucinda Chambers

Pause Magazine articles....

In the past few weeks I have been writing for online magazine and blog Pause Magazine. www.pausemag.co.uk


http://pausemag.co.uk/?p=2040

This article is about Bass Loafers from Urban Outfitters. The perfect way to add a quirky yet classic look to any male wardrobe.

http://pausemag.co.uk/?p=2005

I was interested about the brand Underground, best known for their popular Creeper style shoes.

The end of an era.

David Gandy

Kat Cordts

I am now in my final month of my degree which in itself is a scary thought. Around this time it brings alot of students to question what it actually is that they want to do with their lives. For the past couple of weeks I have been vigorously scouring internship websites and twitter feeds to try and find the perfect job or internship. I have now secured an internship at a new online magazine which will launch later this month called Ra Raavis Magazine. The basic concept is an online magazine that will act as a platform for all kinds of fashion career pathways. I am excited to get started but I am still on the lookout for more experience. The other day I came across an internship for Schon! Magazine, who you may or may not have heard of yet on http://creativeopportunities.arts.ac.uk/. If you are a graduate or student looking for more experience to put on your CV I would definately recommend the creative arts website to search for internships. I have now applied for the Journalist/Copywriter role at Schon! but it is now a waiting game.